AntiqueLures

 

Grading Factors for Wood Lures and Lure Boxes

By Dr. Michael Echols

 

As the dollar value of antique lures rise at a head spinning rate, the necessity of accurate grading becomes more and more critical.   When it was just a bunch of good old boys trading lures they loved, the fine points of grading didn't matter too much.  Today we are talking about $500 or $1,500 lures instead of $5 lures, so the matter of grading is extremely important.  

With higher prices our collections are going to be smaller.   Each addition to a collection is a major financial decision where you can't afford to make a mistake.   Fortunately, the advent of the Internet and the ability to send photos across the country in a matter of seconds has helped solve many grading problems because as they say, a picture is worth a thousand words.

If you want to get into a fired up argument, put three lure collectors in a circle, throw a lure in the middle and ask for a grade.  More than likely you will get three different opinions.  For this article, we'll dispense with the usual photos or list showing  NFLCC grades and limit the discussion to factors which effect grading rather than making statements about absolutes.

VISUAL VALUES:

One of the hottest controversies in any type of collecting, be it coins, guns, or lures, is communicating grading values.   The collectors who have seen everything will grade totally different than the novice who knows nothing.  Perhaps the most dangerous person is the one who has only seen lures at the flea market and tries to communicate the condition of a lure when all he or she has ever seen is a lure in very good condition at best.    What you know about grading is relative to what you have seen.   Grading is visual.

How are you going to get through to "an average condition collector" what a pristine condition lure should look like... much less discuss the fine points of plus and minus grades?   The representations on eBay.com by non-collectors, and not a few NFLCC members, are typical of this problem.  Hopefully we can cover a few topics here to help us better communicate.

When we start getting picky about lure condition, a 10X handheld glass magnifying lens is handy for examining the paint surface, hardware, and searching for crazing .  I frequently look at lures under a 30X binocular dissecting microscope just to get an idea of how the surfaces look at high magnification.  This is getting kind of anal about the topic, but if you are looking for fakes, it is an excellent way to detect "workmanship".

See the article on Grading Lures for photos and additional information

DEFINITIONS AND TERMS FOR LURES:

The following are commonly used terms and illustrations of defects which alter the grade of a lure. They are the types of defects that can change a grade by a plus or minus, and understandably the price.  No one defect will set the grade, but these are the types of problems which can be used to differentiate between Excellent and Excellent minus or between Excellent minus and Very Good.

Plus and minus are in the eye of the beholder, but they are the variations which can cause large swings in price.   Most collectors will pay a lot more for an excellent plus lure than for an excellent minus.  So, let's look at the factors that determine plus or minus and often can change a whole grade level:

DEFINITIONS AND TERMS FOR BOXES

Not much has been written about the grading of boxes, either cardboard or wood.   I'm not going to try to get too involved in discussing these treasures, but it is necessary to be accurate in describing any problems with a box.   A collector, Marie Unger, brought this need to my attention, so I offer her grade descriptions as a part of this discussion.

See the article on Grading Lure Boxes for photos and additional information

When discussing lure boxes:

BOX GRADES:

Mint: Box should look like it came off the shelf. Crisp, no dirt, corners sharp, and no wear. All lettering crisp and clear. Price tags or written price should not detract.  Structure of the box must be stiff and unwarped.   No water marks or sunlight fading damage. 

Excellent: Box will have very minor wear to the corners and some wear around the edges. All wording and lettering should be clear. No rips or tears. Price tags or written price should not detract.  Structure of the box must be stiff and unwarped.   No water marks or sunlight damage.  Wood boxes should have correct tops that fit properly and no fading of the printing.  The wood should be completely clean and no oil or dirt in the wood as well as no evidence of cleaning.

Very Good: Box will have wear to corners and wear around edges. Box may have light soiling or light water marks. Box may have very minor tears (e.g., paper label applied that is starting to peel up) or very small dents. Some of the lettering may be slightly worn.  Structure is still there, box will be square at corners and along panels.  No mushiness to the side or tops.  If it's a wood box, the joints may be sprung or the top not working normally. 

Good: Box will have dirt, stains or water marks. Probably looks "dingy" overall. Lettering will be worn, but you should be able to read part of it. Box may have tears or repairs with tape.  Structure may be distorted and joints of the box may be split.  Sides of box are not straight or stiff.

Poor: Barely readable lettering. Stains, soiling, with tears or parts of the box missing (end flap, etc.).  Structure is gone, box not stiff or squared.  Sides, bottom or top are mushy due to water damage.

Ladies and gentlemen, the bell has rung.   Please come out swinging and let's have a clean fight.  This round will end when the last collector leaves the room.

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